Journal · Kyoto
Kyoto, gently: a tofu lunch, a kimono afternoon and the city from the tower at night
Four Kyoto stops from our 2018 trip that don't involve climbing a mountain, plus an honest note on the hostel where we slept.
Kyoto can feel like a city of stairs and crowds. These are the gentler things we did there in April 2018 that I'd recommend to anyone, whatever pace you travel at.
Lunch at Mamehachi
We found Mamehachi Honten by accident, a tofu and obanzai (Kyoto home-style cooking) restaurant on Shijo-dori near Pontocho. My review: "We walked into this place off the street and had one of the best meals we had while in Japan. It was delicious and the chef was very friendly and spoke English very well."
It's a few minutes from Kawaramachi and Gion-Shijo stations, so it's an easy stop between other sights. Check hours before you go; listings show lunch and dinner service with a midday break and Mondays closed.
A kimono afternoon in Gion
Joanna and I rented kimono from Okamoto's Gion shop near Yasaka Shrine. "The beautiful architecture and decor made for a pleasant and photogenic experience. The kimono where higher quality than other shops we rented from on our trip." More in my kimono rental guide, including why I'd pay extra for silk.
- Book ahead on Okamoto's site. The shop lists hours of 9:00 to 18:00, with returns by 17:50.
- Staff dress you, which takes a while. Plan to sit and wait.
- Kimono and zori sandals change how you walk: smaller steps, slower pace. If your balance is unreliable, ask about wider-soled footwear and keep your walking route flat.
Kyoto Tower at night, and the food hall underneath
Right across from Kyoto Station, Nidec Kyoto Tower has an observation deck about 100 meters up. "We came here in the evening. It was worth the extra fee to get to the top and see the city lit up at night. Be sure to check out the basement for a collection of food vendors that is very excellent and tasty."
That basement is Kyoto Tower Sando, a food hall that opened in 2017 and was renovated in 2023. A tower visit plus dinner downstairs is one of the lowest-effort good evenings in Kyoto.
Small finds: a print gallery and a crêpe
- Walking near a Zen garden in north Kyoto, we stopped at Gallery Gado, a small print gallery. I "loved the simplistic, bright colors of the prints" and wished I could have carried more home.
- Breizh Café in Kyoto was "very delicious with great service." Good for a sit-down break.
Where we slept: K's House Kyoto
We stayed at K's House Kyoto, a backpacker hostel within walking distance of Kyoto Station. "Beds are pretty hard, so be aware. But otherwise pretty great. Very clean, very friendly. And located on a good location."
If you have pain or sleep problems, hard beds are worth knowing about in advance. A hostel is also noisier than a hotel. Earplugs and a mask make a big difference.
Loop Quiet 2 Ear Plugs
Hostel dorms, thin guesthouse walls and early trains all make noise. Soft reusable earplugs are the cheapest sleep upgrade there is, and sleep matters a lot when your energy is limited.
Mavogel Cotton Sleep Eye Mask
Japanese summer sunrises come early, and paper shoji screens in ryokan let in plenty of light. A soft cotton mask helps you sleep past dawn after a long day.
The kit for this guide
Repel Windproof Travel Umbrella
Rain is part of travel in Japan, and the Kii Peninsula and Hakone are both wet places. A small auto-open umbrella is easy to carry and easy to open with one hand.
Also in this guide
Opening hours, routes and rules change; check before you go.