Osaka in two or three days: the castle, knife street, Dotonbori and a food hall

Osaka was the city where Joanna and I shopped the most, ate the best and laughed the most on our 2018 trip. It's also an easy city to take slowly: the main sights are close together, and the shopping streets are covered arcades, which helps on rainy or hot days.

Day one: Osaka Castle, inside and out

My review was short: "Take the tour inside and see it all up close." In a longer one I added: "Go ahead and pay to go inside, it was very fun to see all the exhibits."

The castle tower is a museum, and it has an elevator. See my Osaka Castle access guide for the slopes, elevators and where to rest.

My favorite tip from that day: "After your done inside, go to the other side of the gardens and to your right (while facing away from the entrance). You can take a picture over the pond with flowers and trees framing the castle. It's very beautiful."

Day two: Doguyasuji, Namba and Dotonbori

Sennichimae Doguyasuji is a covered arcade of about 150 meters lined with shops for professional cooks: knives, pots, tableware, lanterns, even plastic food samples. I wrote: "Wonderful shop, many, many knives and kitchenware goods. In fact, this whole section of the shopping area is fantastic. We bought many things from this area." The street's official site lists the shops.

• Knife shops will help you choose and many will engrave a name on the blade. Allow time; it's not a quick purchase.
• Keep new knives boxed and wrapped while you're out. They must go in checked luggage, never carry-on.

From there it's a short walk to Dotonbori, the canal lined with giant signs. Doton Plaza was a decent stop for souvenirs, and they have a bus to the airport. My one warning: "Dont by the suitcases there. There are many cheaper places within walking distance for that item." A foldable duffel from home is cheaper still.

Day three: Shinsaibashi, Takashimaya and the long arcades

• Shinsaibashi-suji is a long covered shopping street running north from Dotonbori. My entire review: "Very fun place to shop!"
• Daiso has a large Shinsaibashi store. "If you are needing something for a good price, come here! Great place to buy many affordable souvenir."
• Don Quijote in Namba is loud, packed and open late. Good for snacks and odd souvenirs.
• Takashimaya in Namba is the opposite: polished and expensive. "Very high end, better have a good sized budget to shop here. However, while some of the shop prices are kind of insane, there were some really great finds here as well. Particularly for foodstuffs." Head to the basement food floor.
• If you still have energy, Tenjinbashi-suji, often called Japan's longest shopping street, is a few stops north.

Where we stayed

We stayed at Dormy Inn PREMIUM Namba, which I'd happily book again: "This is a very nice hotel, very close to shopping and many places to eat. No tattoos in the bath house though :("

That rule has softened at many Dormy Inns. The chain now says some locations offer cover stickers (up to two per guest, with a size limit), and tattoos that can't be fully covered still aren't allowed in the baths. Ask at the front desk, and see my etiquette guide for more on tattoos and baths.

Getting in and out

At Shin-Osaka Station, the shinkansen stop, the Eki Marché food area inside the station was "a great little spot to stop at as we were commuting through the city. Pretty good chicken wings and a good deal on high ball." Good for a rest between trains.

The kit for this guide

Also in this guide

• Asaya Professional Chef Knife Edge Guards (6 pieces)
• Etekcity Digital Luggage Scale
• 65L Foldable Travel Duffel Bag
• Vegan Leather Zip Coin Purse

Opening hours, routes and rules change; check before you go.