Journal · Kumano · Wakayama
Where we slept on the Kumano Kodo: guesthouses, a private island bath and Nachi Falls
Our Kumano Kodo nights, from a mountaintop guesthouse with clouds rolling by to an island hotel with a private bath right next to the sea.
On the Kumano Kodo, where you sleep is half the experience. Inns are small, often family-run, and spaced along the trail so that your stopping points are decided when you book. Here's where Joanna and I stayed in April 2018, with what I wrote at the time. For the walk itself, see my Kumano Kodo guide.
Tanabe, before the trail
Tanabe is the coastal city where most walkers start. I reviewed two small places in its Minato neighborhood, Tentsuku Guest House and the CUE, four stars each. Simple, convenient bases for a night before the bus up to Takijiri.
Takahara: Suzushiro
Our first night on the trail was in the hilltop village of Takahara at Suzushiro. I wrote: "This gem of a guest house was a highlight of our month long trip across Japan. The food was absolutely delicious, so pay the extra fee for the in house meal. We were lucky and were able to watch the clouds roll over the mountains that day."
Takahara is only a few kilometers from the trailhead, but the climb up is steep. Stopping here makes the first day short, which is exactly why we did it. It's listed on Kumano Travel.
Chikatsuyu: Happiness Chikatsuyu
The second night was in Chikatsuyu at Happiness Chikatsuyu: "A very well kept guesthouse. Was a lovely place to rest as we hiked the Pilgrim Trail." Chikatsuyu sits in a valley with a small shop and a bus stop, so it's also a good place to switch to the bus if you need to. Kumano Travel listing.
Yunomine: a private onsen
Our third night was in the hot-spring village of Yunomine, in a room with its own small outdoor bath. I wrote about it in my Yunomine guide.
Katsuura: Azure Island, Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima
After the grand shrines, we stayed on a small island in Katsuura Bay at Kumano-bettei Nakanoshima, reached by a short boat ride from the pier. This was the splurge, and I'd do it again:
"A truly fabulous experience. If you're a shy westerner like me, or you don't want to be away from your significant other while bathing; go ahead and splurge on a private bath. You sit on a small section right next to the water."
- The hotel has a large open-air bath facing the sea, plus private baths you can reserve for a set time. Reserve early; slots are limited.
- The boat ride is short, but check how luggage gets across if you're carrying a lot. Kumano Travel's listing and the hotel's site have details.
Nachi Falls, the next morning
From Katsuura it's a bus ride to Nachi, Japan's tallest single-drop waterfall at 133 meters. My review is the shortest one I've written: "Such a magical place. If you are near here then go!!!" The viewing area at the foot of the falls is down a long flight of stone steps from the bus stop, so the climb comes on the way back; there's more in my Kumano Sanzan guide.
Packing for inn hops
- You'll sleep somewhere new almost every night. Packing cubes make that bearable.
- Book luggage forwarding through Kumano Travel and carry only a day pack.
- Guesthouse walls are thin. Earplugs help.
Eagle Creek Pack-It Original Cube Set (XS/S/M)
When you sleep somewhere new every night, cubes turn unpacking into pulling out one bag. They also make it easy to split a one-night kit into your daypack when the big bag goes ahead.
Loop Quiet 2 Ear Plugs
Hostel dorms, thin guesthouse walls and early trains all make noise. Soft reusable earplugs are the cheapest sleep upgrade there is, and sleep matters a lot when your energy is limited.
The kit for this guide
PackTowl Personal Microfiber Towel (Body)
Inns and onsen usually provide towels, but a quick-dry one is useful on trail days, after a footbath, or for wiping sweat on a hot climb.
Repel Windproof Travel Umbrella
Rain is part of travel in Japan, and the Kii Peninsula and Hakone are both wet places. A small auto-open umbrella is easy to carry and easy to open with one hand.
Also in this guide
Opening hours, routes and rules change; check before you go.