Journal · Hakone · Kanagawa
Hakone, the easy way: Yunessun's swimsuit baths and a night at Ten-yu
On our winter trip we skipped the hiking and spent our Hakone time soaking. A hot-spring theme park, a ryokan with a lit-up creek, and what to know about steps and swimsuits.
Hakone is the classic hot-spring escape from Tokyo, and you can do it without hiking a single trail. On our winter 2019 trip, Joanna and I stayed at Hakone Kowakien Ten-yu and spent our time at Yunessun, the hot-spring theme park next door.
Yunessun: hot springs in a swimsuit
If public nude bathing makes you nervous, Yunessun is the gentle introduction. The main area is a swimsuit zone with themed hot-spring pools. Next to it, Mori no Yu is a traditional onsen where swimsuits aren't allowed. My review: "Very relaxing. Very beautiful. Had a peaceful stay while there."
- The operator says the swimsuit area is cashless inside (cards, IC cards or QR payments) and recommends a waterproof phone case.
- Guests at the hotels on the same site get Yunessun or Mori no Yu access included, depending on the hotel; check your booking. The official Yunessun site has current hours, which change by season.
JOTO Waterproof Phone Pouch (2 pack)
Hakone Yunessun's swimsuit area is cashless inside, and the operator itself recommends a waterproof phone case. A pouch on a lanyard keeps your phone dry around the pools.
Ten-yu: a lit-up creek at night
Ten-yu is the ryokan-style hotel at the same complex, with an open-air bath in every guest room and a covered walkway to Yunessun, which is handy on a cold or rainy day. My review: "Wow, this place is fantastic. Definitely go out to the creek lookout in the evening. It's lit up amazingly."
- A private bath in your room means you can soak whenever you like, at your own pace, without any of the public-bath etiquette to worry about.
- The official Ten-yu site lists room types and the current rules for Yunessun access.
Hot water and a recovering body
Hot baths feel wonderful on tired legs, but they're also a lot for your body. After my stroke I'm careful with heat, so I keep soaks short, drink water between them, and stand up slowly. If you have heart or blood-pressure issues, check with your doctor before a trip built around hot springs.
The kit for this guide
PackTowl Personal Microfiber Towel (Body)
Inns and onsen usually provide towels, but a quick-dry one is useful on trail days, after a footbath, or for wiping sweat on a hot climb.
Repel Windproof Travel Umbrella
Rain is part of travel in Japan, and the Kii Peninsula and Hakone are both wet places. A small auto-open umbrella is easy to carry and easy to open with one hand.
Also in this guide
Opening hours, routes and rules change; check before you go.