Japan at My PaceAccessible Japan travel, one step at a time

Journal · Tokyo, Kyoto & Osaka

Where we ate in Japan, and where I'd eat again

A short, honest list from my own reviews: food alleys, a station highball, a department-store sweet shop, cake by a waterfall and a tofu lunch I still think about.

By Travis Estes · Updated October 2026 · Gentle

A lacquered box of nigiri sushi with salmon roe, scallop and shrimp, next to a blue and white teacup
Sushi set, Japan.

Food was the highlight of every trip Joanna and I took to Japan. This is the short list of places I reviewed, with what I wrote. Some are splurges; most aren't.

Sit-down meals

  • Mamehachi Honten, Kyoto. A tofu and Kyoto home-cooking restaurant near Pontocho. "One of the best meals we had while in Japan. It was delicious and the chef was very friendly and spoke English very well." More in my Kyoto guide.
  • Hanbei, Ikebukuro. Retro izakaya with small, cheap plates. "Worth a stop to enjoy a variety of flavors as you can order single bite size items." Mind the communal sauce.
  • Suzushiro, Takahara. The dinner at our Kumano Kodo guesthouse. "The food was absolutely delicious, so pay the extra fee for the in house meal."

Food alleys and food halls

  • Ebisu Yokocho, Tokyo. "The food was fantastic! Very crowded but worth the trouble to find a seat."
  • Kyoto Tower Sando, Kyoto. The basement food hall under Kyoto Tower: "a collection of food vendors that is very excellent and tasty."
  • Takashimaya, Osaka. The basement food floors were where the "really great finds" were.
  • Eki Marché, Shin-Osaka Station. "Pretty good chicken wings and a good deal on high ball." A good stop between trains.

Treats worth the splurge

  • Suzunami, Tokyo Midtown. A shop known for fish marinated in sake lees. "Expensive, but very delicious."
  • Three Twins Ice Cream, NEWoMan Shinjuku. "Expensive, but fantastic!"
  • Starbucks Reserve, Tokyo Midtown. Not something I expected to review in Japan, but: "Great service, lovely decor, and great view from the second level."
  • Hotel Gajoen Tokyo. A cake set looking out at the waterfall and koi pond.
  • Breizh Café, Kyoto. "Very delicious with great service."

Not every bakery is a destination

I gave one Omotesando bakery café three stars, not because it was bad, but because "Japan has high quality baked goods everywhere." Don't cross the city for a bakery. There's a good one near your hotel.

Opening hours, routes and rules change; check before you go.